Me olime üle kuu aja oodanud Fjällnäs mägispaa külastust, kuid läks nii, et laupäeval kui kohvrid juba tegelikult pakitudki olid, pidime me reisi ära jätma. Ma olin nii kurb. Ja juba järgmisel hetkel sattus mu teele naisterahvas, kes järgmisel nädalal pidi sõitma pooleks aastaks Indiasse ning oli samuti kurb, sest ta ei olnud leidnud kedagi, kes tema kodul silma peal hoiaks. Me läksime seda vaatama, kuigi ma olin kindel, et see on niisama ajaraiskamine. Tund aega hiljem lahkusin ma oma uuest tulevasest kodust.
See kodu oli nagu muinasjutt. Kõige ehtsam Norra kodu. Aknast paistab järv ja taamal mäed, maja ümber on suusarajad, tuba oli täitunud mõnusa kardemonilõhnaga. Ma kujutasin juba ette, kuidas me seal jõule peame, piparkooke küpsetame, kui ma saaks kodust kätte oma kransekake vormid, prooviks ma jälle kransekake't teha. Esimene kord tuli koogi asemel ahjutäis kerkinud munavalget, mis igale poole kleepus....
Ma ei suutnud uskuda, et me olime endale sellise kodu leidnud. Ma ei olnud enam Fjällnäsi pärast kurb. Kõik juhtub põhjusega. Kui me oleksime laupäeval ära sõitnud, ei koliks me kolmapäeval uude koju sisse.
Pühapäeva hommikul hakkasime me liikuma poole, kuhu Rørose poole, kuhu mind oli perega külla ootamas Solheim Pensjonat. Minuga on nii, et kui kuhugi reisile minek on, siis heal juhul tean ma suunda ja aadressi, rohkem ma teekonda ei analüüsi ega planeeri. GPS on minu mõistus ja silmad ning rohkem polegi vaja. Nii ka seekord. GPSi sai sisetatud pansionaadi aadress ja kolme poole tunni pärast pidime me kohal olema.
Ühel hetkel hakkas GPS meid mägedesse vedama. Me tahtsime vastu punnida, aga kui kõik neljas erinevas seadmes tööle pandud GPSid näitasid jonnakalt teekonda läbi Rondane rahvuspargi, andsime me alla ja alustasime tõusu.
Ma pean täiesti ausalt tunnistama, et kui me ühel hetkel olime keset lõputuna näivat lumevälja, kilomeetrite kaupa ei olnud me näinud ei inimesi ega maju (küll lume alla mattunud hytte'sid), eemal paistvaid kõrgeid mäetippe, mis pani mind õlgu võdistama, sest enam ei saanud kindel olla, kas äkki tuleb meil sinna välja sõita, oli mul kerge hirm. Seesama lage lumeväli oli ju ka ühe sellise kaugelt kõrgunud mäe tipp. Tee oli jäine ja lumine, sinka-vonkaline, üles ja alla, teepiirdeid ei kusagil. Maailmalõpu tunne tuli peale. Ma mõtlesin, et miks paganama pärast ma selle reisi ette tahtsin võtta ning mõistsin, miks meile sügiselgi ei soovitatud suverehvidega teekonda ette võtta.
Ma istusin vaikselt auto tagaistmel ja mõtlesin, et nii kaua kuni Marek ei kasuta sõnu "hirmus" või "libe", on kõik hästi. Kui ta siis järgmisel hetkel ütles, et jube libe oli, palusin ma tal need teadaanded edasise tee vältel endale hoida. Et mul turvalisem tunne oleks.
Samas ei saa eitada, et vaated, mis meile avanesid, olid hingematvad. Mul oli natuke hea meel, et me olime siia sattunud, sest kui me mingi hetkel Sohlbergplasseni vaateplatvormile sattusime tundus mulle, et olime postkaardile sattunud. Ma olin seda vaadet varem ka fotodel näinud, kuid vaadet, mis meile sealt avanes, on raske sõnadesse panna ja kehva fotograafina ka pildile püüda. See oli liialdamata hingemattev ilu.
Kolme ja pooletunnisest autosõidust sai kiiresti neli tundi ja viisteist minutit. Ringiga mööda tavalist teed oleks teekond olnud viis tundi (nagu me hiljem ka alternatiivse reisiteekonna üles leidsime). Kui me esmaspäeva varahommikul peale öö läbi kestnud lumesadu ja pilkases pimeduses uuesti Lillehammeri poole sõitma hakkasime, olime me kindlad, et mingu ringiga kasvõi kuus-seitse-kaheksa tundi, kuid minna seiklema tundmatutele teedele, lumesajus ja pimedas, mööda pilvedesse ulatuvaid mäetippe tundus liiga hullumeelne.
Siit ka soovitus kõigile, kes Norra ilu talvel nautima lähevad. Pange kindlasti soojad riided selga, varuge aega, laadige täis telefonid ja võtke kaasa söök ja jook. Mägedes ei saa kunagi liiga ettevaatlik olla. Keset lumesadu võivad teed ka suletud olla ja nii te seal "päästmist" ootama jääte.
Mitte mingil juhul ei tähenda see, et ma ei soovita mägedesse minna. Absoluutselt soovitan. See on võimas!
Tagasitee kulges mööda teist oru külge nö tavalisel igaval teel. Aga turvalisel. Kuigi päike oli juba ammu tõusnud nägime me sellel oru küljel päikest vaid korraks kõrge mäe tagant piilumas poole kümne paiku. Nii sürreaalselt hämar oli.
We had been waiting for the trip to Fjällnäs for over a month, we had even our suitcases packed on Saturday, but unfortunately had to cancel at last minute. I was so sad. I had been so excited and couldn't wait to enjoy the pure unspoilt beauty of Sweden at this (Sweden's oldest mountain) hotel.
But you know everything happenes for a reason. If we had left Lillehammer on Saturday, we would not have received keys to my new home and I would not be packing. A lady, who was leaving to India for 6 months needed someone to look after her house. And the house is like a fairytale. It is so Norwegian in my mind. Warm and sweet and smelled of cardamom. I could not believe this. I cannot wait to bake in the kitchen. And perhaps try to make kransekake again. First time I tried (thousands of years ago), the whole oven was sticky from eggwhite cream...
Cannot wait until Wednesday!
On Sunday we started our trip towards Røros, where I was invited by the lovely ladies running a retrohotel Solheim Pensjonat (more about this hotel in a separate post).
When I travel somewhere I never analyze the road, I know the direction and the address and that's it. GPS is my brain and eyes.The gps showed 3,5h to the destination. Not bad I said to my husband and we hit the road.
At some point the gps started to show the roads up to the mountains. Yes, the same high mountains we had seen from the road. The roads looked narrow, icy and scary. We tried to fight the gps, but when all four mobile devices showed that this is the road to take, we gave in and started the ascent.
I have to be honest and say that driving in the middle of a snow field which looked endless, for many miles we had not seen people nor houses (only some hytter, covered in deep snow), and the mountain tops far away made me shiver, I could not be sure if these are the tops where we will be driving next. I got a bit scared, The flat snow field where we were driving now had also been one of those tops up there. The road was going up and down, covered with snow and ice, I understood why they had not recommended to take the trip with summertires in the autumn...
I was sitting on the backseat and feeling scared, but at the same time I was enjoying the scenery. It was so beautiful. Indescribable and breathtaking, I could understand how this glittering snow and sunshine can in minutes turn into threatening storm and you have nowhere to hide. It felt like in the end of the world. Did I mention already how beautiful it was though?
The Sohlbergsplassen viewing point at Atnsjøen lake I had seen on the photos, but to see it with your own eyes is something different. The platform frames the view towards the lake and the rounded peaks is like from a picture postcard. The place is named after a Norwegian painter Harald Solhberg, the same view appears one of his painting. "Winter's Night in Rondane". As a bad photographer it was hard to catch the beauty of the national park on the photos, but I have it on my memory film. You should take the trip and have it on your memory film as well.
The gps had showed time to destination 3,5h, but it took us 4 hours and 15 minutes. We discovered that another road ( a "normal" road) leads to Rorøs as well, but we thought 5 hours will be too much to drive. But I am glad we didn't know that with breaks and not the easiest road conditions the shortcut is almost as long, otherwise we had missed so much. It is totally worth visit. Make sure you have on warm clothes, phones fully charged and something to drink and eat. As said, it can easily turn into a storm up there.
On Sunday we started our trip towards Røros, where I was invited by the lovely ladies running a retrohotel Solheim Pensjonat (more about this hotel in a separate post).
When I travel somewhere I never analyze the road, I know the direction and the address and that's it. GPS is my brain and eyes.The gps showed 3,5h to the destination. Not bad I said to my husband and we hit the road.
At some point the gps started to show the roads up to the mountains. Yes, the same high mountains we had seen from the road. The roads looked narrow, icy and scary. We tried to fight the gps, but when all four mobile devices showed that this is the road to take, we gave in and started the ascent.
I have to be honest and say that driving in the middle of a snow field which looked endless, for many miles we had not seen people nor houses (only some hytter, covered in deep snow), and the mountain tops far away made me shiver, I could not be sure if these are the tops where we will be driving next. I got a bit scared, The flat snow field where we were driving now had also been one of those tops up there. The road was going up and down, covered with snow and ice, I understood why they had not recommended to take the trip with summertires in the autumn...
I was sitting on the backseat and feeling scared, but at the same time I was enjoying the scenery. It was so beautiful. Indescribable and breathtaking, I could understand how this glittering snow and sunshine can in minutes turn into threatening storm and you have nowhere to hide. It felt like in the end of the world. Did I mention already how beautiful it was though?
The Sohlbergsplassen viewing point at Atnsjøen lake I had seen on the photos, but to see it with your own eyes is something different. The platform frames the view towards the lake and the rounded peaks is like from a picture postcard. The place is named after a Norwegian painter Harald Solhberg, the same view appears one of his painting. "Winter's Night in Rondane". As a bad photographer it was hard to catch the beauty of the national park on the photos, but I have it on my memory film. You should take the trip and have it on your memory film as well.
The gps had showed time to destination 3,5h, but it took us 4 hours and 15 minutes. We discovered that another road ( a "normal" road) leads to Rorøs as well, but we thought 5 hours will be too much to drive. But I am glad we didn't know that with breaks and not the easiest road conditions the shortcut is almost as long, otherwise we had missed so much. It is totally worth visit. Make sure you have on warm clothes, phones fully charged and something to drink and eat. As said, it can easily turn into a storm up there.
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